Mary Anna Bailer recounts a relaxed and lovely trip to a coastal region of Italy
by Mary Anna Bailer
LW contributor
Many of us remember vacation trips where we were rushed from place to place, sight to sight, amidst pushing and shoving crowds, tired and overwhelmed. Perhaps now you can enjoy an easier pace with time to savor the experience.
May I suggest the Lazio area of Italy, the coastal region south of Rome and north of Naples. On my recent trip with “To Italy with Love” tours I took it easy, enjoying long lunches, beautiful beaches and walks through charming villages. I spent two weeks in the small town of Sperlonga, two hours from Rome on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Just think: check in to your hotel and stay the whole time, no unpacking and re-packing.
June Morrocco, an Oregon woman who lived in Italy for 10 years, organizes the trips. She takes groups four times a year, twice in the spring, twice in the fall. The itinerary follows a pattern; on most days there is a visit to a surrounding town, village, winery or other place of interest, followed by a group luncheon. On one day there is a special excursion to Pompeii, on another day a trip to Rome. Both of these are optional. Instead of Rome I revisited a site I found fascinating, the ruins of Tiberius’ villa. One statue, now displayed in the adjacent museum, is the blinding of Cyclops by Ulysses. Huge and terrifying, but it was also an example of the skill and artistry of the ancient sculptors.
Another great day was our trip to the gardens of Ninfa, gorgeous gardens set amidst Roman ruins. Romantic and atmospheric; I would like to go back in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom. After our time in the gardens we went to the medieval town of Sermonetta, for a great lunch and a walk around the castle.
After that trip we went to Pompeii. The crowds were overwhelming and nearly ruined it for me. Still, it was fascinating and I’m not sorry I went. But I was glad, at the end of the day, to get back to the quiet of Sperlonga.
A feature of this trip is that June is your guide, telling interesting stories about her family, especially her aunt, a midwife. During World War II, when people had no money for her services, she still delivered babies. Often a basket of food; chicken, a loaf of bread, fruit and vegetables would be given when the family could afford it. This gives a personal context beyond just enjoying the sights. It’s everyday Italy rather than tourist Italy.
The pace of the trip can easily be adjusted; if you get tired of walking June will direct you to a café where you can rest. She’ll pick you up later. And since we’re always staying at the same hotel, you can choose to take a day off or skip a meal with no problem. Feel free to just hang out in beautiful Sperlonga; shop, go to the beach, order a pizza or a cocktail, admire the views.
On our next to the last night we had an evening dance party: pizza, Chianti, and live music on the patio of the hotel. Two musicians played for us, a keyboardist and a violinist. When they played “The Twist” most of us got up and danced in the street. Locals out taking a walk joined in, even a tiny toddler girl and her parents. Magical!
Getting to Sperlonga is not a problem; June picks us up at Rome airport and returns us there at the end of the trip. To get myself to Rome I booked with ITA, the Italian airlines, non-stop LAX to Rome and back. Connecting flights give me anxiety for good reason and I was relieved to find direct flights. I went a day early and stayed in an airport hotel for one night, then met the group the next morning for the two-hour drive to Sperlonga.
If you might be interested in this trip, you can check it out at toitalywithlovetours.com.
